View from Montreux

Thursday, September 27, 2007

J'aime toutes les choses francaises

I write to you now from Paris!! The fact that I have power on my computer to do so is in itself a feat, as I think all the plugs in our room are grounded, or at least they all have an extra silver thing sticking out of them that initially prevented me from plugging my adapter into them, but after I went downstairs the guy gave me an additional adapter. However now my computer power converter is really hot so I’m worried about the voltage but I think that’s just cause it’s more, since my computer is working and all.

Anyway, to backtrack, Monday we had class in Geneva. I’m used to getting up around 7 to have breakfast with my host mom, so I just went to Geneva early and did some reading in a café (my new favorite thing to do now, btw… I’m going to be really sad when I get back to the US and realize that cafés are non-existent, save Starbucks and Peet’s coffee… ugh). Class was unexciting, then I had lunch with friends in Nyon. That day for French class we all went to “Chocolate school” and learned how chocolate is made. Afterwards we got some delicious tasting of some pretty amazing chocolate. That night after dinner I slept over at Natasha’s. Her real family lives in Geneva, and we had to be at the train station really early in the morning so it was just easier. A whole bunch of people were over since we all live so far from Genève, and it was fun. We found a TCM movie to watch that was actually in English, lol.

Tuesday morning we left for PARIS and are here now J We got in around 11am and checked into our hotel. The rooms are small but it’s nice having a roommate and our own bathroom and stuff. I’m rooming with Beza. Our hotel is in Montmartre rather close to Sacre-Coeur. During the day me, Bez, Natasha, and Sara wandered around Montmartre, Abesse, and Pigall (which is apparently sex city… every other shop was a sex shop or lap dance bar… it was interesting, but we were there during the day). Everything is so beautiful. Then we took the metro with the goal of walking around the Latin Quartier before dinner and found Notre Dame when we walked out, it was pretty cool. We caught a little bit of the mass (which was in French!), and they were burning frankincense so it was pretty cool. I think we got there too late to walk up to the top, though. Then we did get to the Latin Quartier (or so I think) and walked around the restaurants until we finally decided to eat some Chinese food because we all missed it. Afterwards we wandered towards this dome-shaped building we could see up the hill. I can’t remember what it was exactly but there were lots of French flags and I took pictures, and we could see the Eiffel tower down the street and it was beautiful. Then we wandered around for a while trying to find a metro stop, that took a while.

We got back to the hotel and were going to go out with another part of our group, but for some reason they were in a hurry to go out when it was barely 9:00, and they left us while we were getting ready (we weren’t bitter or anything). It’s a rather unfortunate consequence of our group, we decided, that the dynamic is that “I’m going to go out and have fun and it really doesn’t matter if you’re there.” Anyway, Bez, Sara and I went out because it did matter if we were with each other, we found Sacre Coeur and of course everything is more beautiful at night, not to mention that there’s an amazing view of the city from there. Then we ended up in Abesse again and went to a bar. It’s rather difficult because it doesn’t seem like things are that expensive here when they are in reality. We were really excited to find cocktails for 5,50 euros until we realized that that’s probably closer to 8 or 9 dollars lol. The thing is in Francs that is cheap, and we’re so used to francs and things being expensive in absolute terms (20 franc dinner or 8 euro dinner… not as different as we’d hope). Anyway, that was my first day in Paris, it was pretty much beautiful.

Tuesday, September 25, 2007

Weekend #3

Almost a month has gone by… Friday was another not-so-exciting research day. Classes in the morning, with lectures from the European Genetic medicines Association, which was actually pretty interesting. Also heard from one of the host fathers who is a doctor here in Switzerland, and he shared his view on genetics in Swiss medicine. For the afternoon got some delicious Lebanese food with Bez, Natasha, and Orlando; I definitely have a favorite kebab place here. Then we went to the UN Library to get some logistics figured out, including changing out Paris hostel booking, looking for more seminars for my research, and buying tickets to Barcelona!!! Somehow spent almost the entire afternoon doing that, then went to another library to get some actual work done. That night people mostly stayed in, which was sad because I wanted to go out and had no one to go with, so I went to Sara’s and spent the night there.

Saturday morning we arranged with Natasha’s host family to go grape picking in the vineyards!! Weirdly enough Natasha wasn’t there because her real family lives in Geneva, and she went home for Yom Kippur, but I grape picked with Sara, Orlando, and Jordan, and the rest of Natasha’s host family. They own about 1 hectare of land, and each harvest it’s the family themselves that go out and harvest the grapes. It was hard work, we cut grapes for about 2 hours (there was a considerable number of spiderwebs, which I didn’t so much like), but we got to eat grapes and take cool pictures and stuff. Then they loaded the grapes onto their little tractor-truck and drove down to the main “town,” where the caves are located. All the “winemakers” (except you can’t really call them that, since they don’t actually make the wine) take their grapes to this central facility and sell their grapes based on the quality of the grapes. Then, all the grapes of the same kind are mixed together in the giant vats and ferment and whatnot; we even got a tour of the facilities (which wasn’t quite as romantic as going wine-tasting in Napa, but still pretty cool). Natasha’s dad showed us the presser that squeezes the grape juice out, but there were also these big storage rooms that I guess holds the juice while it ferments, and they hire like little people to crawl through the small hole going into the room and step on the grapes (or maybe mix the juice… I’m not really sure but it sounded pretty crazy). Afterwards the tradition is to whip out a couple bottles of wine and drink them out of one shotglass for the whole group, and I’m not gonna lie, it was pretty good wine. If you’re ever out and see a bottle of wine from Morges there’s a minute possibility that I picked some of the grapes in that bottle! LOL. Then we went back to their 400+ year old house, which used to be the castle in the town, for lunch. Natasha’s host mom made this delicious cheese quiche and salad and bread and it was quite nice, of course afterwards she sent us home with some grapes as well.

That night I didn’t really feel like going out and spending money, since we’re going to Paris this week, so I stayed in and watched A Little Princess (one of my favorite movies ever). Today, I just went into Geneva. I went to a park in Old Town called Parc du Bastions, which is very pretty and also has free wi-fi access. Mostly just emailed, facebooked, and loaded pictures for the morning, then got a crepe lunch at a little kiosk stand in the park while getting some reading done (unfortunately it wasn’t as delicious as I’d hoped it would be, but I did notice that they made fresh orange juice, which I’m definitely going back for). I wandered around Old Town looking for a café (since hardly anything is open on Sundays), then got some thé (tea) – Earl Grey Green Tea? Didn’t know there was such a thing, but it was good, and I had brought the little pear tart my host mom made last night, so it was a delicious thing to do while actually getting a little bit of real work done. When the wifi I was picking up there copped out on me I walked back towards the park and sat at the supposed longest bench in the world talking to people online, with the wonderful sun shining on my back J Then my computer died, so I walked back to the train station just in time to miss my only train for the hour. I ended up getting on the next train to Nyon (which is a bigger village with more frequent trains, and comes before Rolle), deciding I’d rather wait for my train in Nyon than at the Geneva train station. I sat on a bench in the sun for a couple minutes then happened to see Sara riding her bike to the McDonalds to pick up some wifi, so she waited with me until my next train came. Came home for dinner, and now here I am again! More excitement to come… I hope you’re all doing well!

Living the Swiss Life

So I just got back from an amazingly delicious and filling dinner of fondue!! Tonight was the group dinner with all our host families, and we ate at a chalet up in the Jura mountains, with wine and cheese fondue and all sorts of deliciousness. The cheese was a mix of I guess different kinds of cheeses, as well as white wine and garlic. We just ate bread with the cheese, but it’s super filling anyway because you’re dipping these chunks of bread in melted, fatty, delicious cheese. I learned that when having fondue one should not eat ice cream or orange juice (for digestion purposes), and that wine and tea are good for digestion. I had white wine with my dinner and actually liked it. It was quite the enjoyable experience, as our entire group plus families took over pretty much the entire chalet restaurant and just socialized all night with each other and with each other’s families. I realized how much I love being tight with a big group of people, being close with a lot of people or at least close enough that I’d be comfortable hanging out with any of them.

Earlier this week we mostly just had classes. Monday was hardly exciting, then Tuesday we had someone come talk to us from Médecins Sans Frontières, Switzerland. He mostly talked to us about the organization of the group, so it was an okay lecture but not super exciting. For French class we visited a little shop that our teacher likes to go for homemade yogurt. The guy there explained to our little class of 5 “advanced” French students how they make the cheese, but I most certainly didn’t understand everything he was saying (I’m also realizing how short 3 months is, and am not so sure I’ll be able to reach the fluency I had hoped for, although I know I will definitely improve in my French… btw to those of you that speak French we are so speaking it all the time when we get home. I’m also loving how we give each other cheek kisses as greetings…). Then he let us sample like 5 different kinds of cheese, which were kind of strong but pretty delicious. I don’t think they were pasteurized, since we asked about his thoughts on American cheese, and he didn’t know but our teacher said that it’s different in the US because our cheeses are pasteurized and it takes a certain je ne sais quoi away from the taste. Then he gave us 3 things of caramel yogurt to try, free of charge, and it was pretty damn delicious.

That night I met up with Alyssa, Emily, one of Emily’s friends, Pete, and Paul. We just went to Nyon and chilled at a couple of bars, it was fun. Wednesday was far from an exciting day. I had another advising meeting with Earl, and spent the rest of the day doing research, which sucked a lot since I was in Geneva and wanted to go out and explore but we just have so much work to do. I went to the Graduate Library for International Development, and found a giant shelf of books on development and development economics, which kind of overwhelmed me since my topic has to do with that subject, and I haven’t taken any Development Econ classes yet, so I just couldn’t believe how much information is out there. Anyway, today we had a lecture from someone from Médecins du Monde (Doctors of the World, MDM), which was probably more disappointing than Tuesday’s. He had a pretty strong French accent, and I was able to understand him pretty well but the lecture didn’t really have any organization, not to mention he barely talked about MDM, which I had kind of expected. Then I went back to the cheese place and bought some delicious yogurt to go with my lunch, as well as some “expensive” truffles – and by that I mean most candy bars at the grocery store are about 1.50 CHF, and my little box of truffles was 5.60 CHF (think Lindt-quality, though… so it’s really not that bad). I got some Ferrero Roche too because that stuff is delicious. Anyway the chocolates were amazing, I’m really going to miss the quality of chocolate when I go back to the US. Beza and I had our little sandwich picnic lunches at the castle in Nyon, which overlooked the lake and mountains and was absolutely beautiful, except maybe for the fact that everyone else there was a teenager making out with each other, and that bees seem to have a thing for me so our lunch was somewhat interrupted. Anyway, more French again in the afternoon, then tonight’s dinner. That’s all for now, but I’m hoping to make it out to Lausanne this weekend as well as do some grape-picking at one of my friend’s family’s vineyards. We go to PARIS on Tuesday!!

Wednesday, September 19, 2007

The Weekend Again?

Study abroad is going by so fast!!! Another weekend past, and it was most definitely a great one. Friday we went to the Museum of the International Committee for the Red Cross (ICRC), and got a tour of the museum. It’s a pretty cool museum, with the original cards used in WWI to match soldiers with their families for contact and knowledge about them. Every Tuesday when the library closes someone works with the cards to find people, still. They have these five modules, little rooms that emphasize some of the Red Cross’ efforts, including land mines, prisoners, health education and awareness, and supply delivery. The fifth and the one that had the biggest impact on me was a module with pictures of the children from Rwanda who were too young to remember or say their family’s names, so the ICRC created a database of these children’s pictures and information on where they were found, so families could try and find their children that way. The entire room, wall to wall, was covered in the pictures of these children, with a few smiling but the majority looking like sad mug shots of these probably 5 years or younger children who had been part of the war and had no families. The museum also had symbolic statues of all the victims of human rights and other abuses around the world, wrapped in cloth to be ambiguously faceless, speechless, genderless, etc. All in all the museum was a good one, but rather depressing as well.

Afterwards I spent a little bit of time on the computers at the UN library across the street, then went to check out the Jardin Botanique (Botanical Gardens) with Orlando. We had our (money-saving) packed lunches there then walked around. The coolest part of it I think was that they had exhibits of everyday products we use, shown next to the plant that it comes from. They had everything from fruits to herbs to medicines used in everyday drugs. I had a delicious dinner of raclette, a kind of cheese that’s melted then poured over cooked potatoes. That night I met up with Beza and Natasha, and we wandered around Old Town Geneva looking for something to do. We ended up having ice cream at a café (how European, right?) – I got vanilla with chocolate sauce, whipped cream, and poire (pear). The pear part seemed different but it was actually really delicious (I think anything covered in chocolate and ice cream automatically qualifies as delicious, though). Natasha had to catch her last bus home, but Beza and I stayed a little and tried to go back to see if there was a party going on again at L’Isle Rousseau (Rousseau Island), which there really wasn’t but we danced the night away anyway.

Saturday was very awesome. Natasha’s host sister knew about a concert going on where we could camp, the Festival Chant du Gros. We went with Sara, Pete, and Paul (her sister drove us, since it was kind of far away). We spent half the day coordinating people getting there, which was kind of a pain, but we finally all got to our rendez-vous point and then to the concert. The whole thing basically took place in a field right outside a small country town, with camping tents pitched all over the place and two big tents pitched, each with stages inside for live music. The music was supposed to be a Reggaeton festival, which we mostly heard at first, but that made me really miss going to rock concerts. Luckily, later that night there were some rock bands, and it was really fun dancing with our little group and just being in the middle of this huge hippie festival (yes, hippie… take what you may from that :-D). The festival had been going since Thursday, and this was the last night. Since we got there at 5, we were pretty much dead tired by about 1am, but the party went all night long (as we slept uncomfortably, coldly, and crowded in our little ghetto tent). Live music played till 3am, followed by stereo music, and the entire camp site was alive all night, too (except us, the lame Americans). Natasha’s sister and a random friend we made both came by at some point in the night wanting to know why the hell we were sleeping, but we didn’t care. I love dancing, though. Anyway, the next morning we got some breakfast at a café then headed home.

After showering away the smell of camping and various types of smoke, I met up with Beza, Nadia, and Ebun in Nyon to do some studying. We found some chairs outside a café and did as much studying as one can do in a group. Afterwards I came home for dinner, coconut curry chicken, and did more work until now. As it’s almost 11:00 I think I shall go to bed soon… Bonne nuit!

Friday, September 14, 2007

Week 2 in Switzerland

I can’t believe I’ve already been here for two weeks! It’s already gone by really fast, I can only imagine how quickly the rest of the semester will go by. Monday was a much less interesting day – I just had class and more class in Nyon. Tuesday we went to the World Trade Organization for a briefing. Someone talked to us about the basic workings of the WTO, which was helpful because I finally understand how negotiations and trade rounds work. At the end I think she said something about a 200 person long waiting list of applicants to intern there, but encouraged working there because there’s always something that needs to be done, and you get to do actual work, although it also sounds like a rather demanding internship. I had honestly thought that WTO had a location in DC, but apparently Geneva is there only one (I guess it’s IMF and World Bank that are in DC, but not WTO). Afterwards lunch and French class in Nyon.

It really feels like we’re in another world here and everyone else is frozen in time, even though I know that’s not the case. Tuesday was September 11, and I wouldn’t have realized it very much if not for the fact that we talked about it a little in French class. That night was Ethiopian New Year, and Beza’s Ethiopian so she wanted to do something to celebrate. I thought it was both weird and cool that we were going to find a millennium celebration party while the same day was also a very sad one for many people who lost loved ones. Anyway, turns out the guy who sold all of us our SIM cards (almost all of us bought the same ones, and the salesman was really nice) hooked Beza up with the number of someone throwing a party, and Beza asked me to call since my French was better than hers. Well finding the information in the first place was challenging, because my French is good but I’m certainly not fluent, and the location was at a restaurant in Lausanne (about a 30 min train ride away from here). I think it turns out the number I had been calling was the home phone of the man organizing the party, so at first the person who answered was like a little girl and she asked if I wanted to talk to her dad. Well, we finally got the information we wanted, including costs and times and directions. Beza and I went to Lausanne that night for the dinner, along with our friend Orlando. It was certainly an adventure, to say the least, since none of us had been there before, and we got lost even with directions (we probably ended up asking for directions at least 5 times, in multiple languages – Orlando is fluent in Spanish). Anyway, we finally got to the party and had delicious Ethiopian food, and it was more of a dinner with a broadcast of the New Year’s events in Ethiopia showing on a big screen, and people just kind of sitting and eating. Either way it was good food and a good experience.


Wednesday we had individual advising appointments scheduled to go over our Independent Study Project topics, so I went to Geneva and tried to get some work done at the UN library. I got lunch with Beza and Orlando, discovering again that everything is super expensive (lunch costs at least 24 francs at a restaurant… and francs do have a better conversion rate to the dollar but not by that much), then going to a buffet/cafeteria type lunch at the Coop (a grocery store with restaurant). For my project I’m kind of overwhelmed because I’m pretty much interested in everything we’re studying, but I’m leaning towards focusing on pro-poor growth. In a nutshell (I’ll try to explain it as simply as possible), economic growth is generally agreed upon to be a good thing for development, but it doesn’t always benefit everyone equally. I’d like to try and find methods of development/aid/trade that will stimulate growth equitably, distributing income more equally so that the poor get a portion of these benefits and poverty can be reduced (consequentially improving public health – the other aspect of my paper).


Today we went to the International Centre on Migration and Health, and heard from Manuel Carballo on migrants and public health. Well of course some of the things he talked about struck a chord with me, since I did a lot of research on immigrant populations this summer with ACE and was familiar with some of the demographics and characteristics important to their success. I sort of am thinking of changing my focus to something along those lines, but will probably stick with the original plan. Again, French class in Nyon in the afternoon… and dinner tonight was amazing! We had rosti again, which is one of my new favorite things in the world (yes, it’s just hash browns… but it’s so much better because it’s Swiss), along with zucchini and steak cooked in an herb margarine. It was delicious J I was hoping to explore Lausanne for the weekend, but people seem more eager to go to Geneva, so I don’t know what I will be doing. More to come… write me and let me know how everything’s going!!

Freedom!

Finally, the weekend! After such a packed week, we were all pretty ready to do whatever we wanted. When we asked Earl what he recommended for our free Friday afternoon, he said we should get started on our cultural journals (homework, of course!), in which we are supposed to write five pages about a cultural observation or encounter here in Switzerland, and reflect and stuff. Needless to say none of us did that :) I went home for lunch (Renat whipped us up some fresh pesto), then went to get my permit for living in the area. The guy that helped us was actually looking for an English tutor for his son, which I said I’d be willing to do, but it still has to be worked out in terms of times and whatnot. Then I went to Nyon and tried to see what everyone was up to, but didn’t find much. A couple of people had planned to check out the International Music Festival in Geneva, so I went out there early to access some free wifi, and they grabbed some food. However I decided to go home for dinner and didn’t see the festival, since I had plans with other people to go to Lausanne for the night. That didn’t end up happening, but we slept over at Beza’s because her host family was out for the weekend in France. It was fun, mostly just girl talk and eating all her food, lol. Saturday I went home for lunch, which was breaded chicken, pasta, and vegetables. Then I headed to Geneva, hoping to get more free wifi in a park and get some reading done, but I couldn’t pick up any wireless so I found a café nearby that offered 30 minutes free for customers. Spent the afternoon reading, then wandered around and found a flea market in Plain Palais as well as the Swiss National Circus, Cirque Knie, in town. Went home for dinner, and I have a feeling I had leftovers but I can’t remember. That night I met up with some people to go out in Nyon, where we discovered a very large high-school age drinking crowd and instead went to a couple of bars to try some drinks and just chill. A few girls said they were going to sleep under the castle for the night but I opted against it considering it was rather cold out, and I had a bed waiting for me hardly 15 minutes away.

Sunday Renat was out for the day for a friend’s birthday party, and told me I could invite a friend over for lunch. There aren’t a lot of people that live farther out than me (and can therefore come here without having to buy another train ticket), so I ended up going to Beza’s and just brought the pizza. Then we went to the International Music Festival with Nadia, hoping to check out the reggae act for the day. They didn’t start until hours after we got there and had spent lots of money on food (I got a delicious crepe with some kind of apple sauce that was like apple sauce but a little thicker consistency – it was good) and walked around the little free trade-esque shops that were set up. It wasn’t really what we expected. They had a sort of battle, with people coming up and rapping in French, English (Caribbean-esque), and Spanish! I loved it, but since our lives revolves around the once-an-hour train we had to leave without finishing it (didn’t want to get home too late, either). I had pasta with tuna for dinner (which I thought was kind of odd, but it tasted good enough), then spent hours on my rather dificile French homework. Got up early this morning to do some reading, and now I have to go to class!

Friday, September 7, 2007

Always Something New to Learn

So far, I’ve learned that Ricola and Ferrero Rocher are both Swiss brands, in addition to Lindt, of course, and there are entire walls of chocolate in all the supermarkets. My plan is to buy one bar a week, and hopefully try most of them before I leave. A lot of them have praline in them, which tastes like hazelnut to me, and is absolutely delicious. I have yet to have fondue, and am really starting to want to buy a Swatch, since they’re also everywhere.

For me one of the most interesting things to take in is the culture and politics. I’ll try not to drone on about it too long, but Switzerland is known for its direct democracy, where the people pretty much vote for everything. Their executive branch is interesting too, as they have seven people in the cabinet who take turns being president for a year each. I found out that in Geneva drug addicts can go to clinics to access clean needles free of charge (though of course they have to bring their own drugs). People vote on all issues through a referendum, and I read that one of the referendums that recently passed was to make heroine available by prescription. Sexuality and personal space are also different concepts. Earl warned us not to wear anything too revealing because it would be an invitation to others (similar to us, I guess). He has an interesting fashion though, as his standard outfit are black Capri pants with a button down shirt, but only the bottom two buttons are buttoned. He’s a very interesting man, if you can imagine the outfit on a bald man with glasses. I suppose you could say he’s a character, and certainly has his quirks. He speaks English very well, and very enunciatedly, although we often can’t understand what he’s trying to get at academically. One non-academic example is when he was talking to us about SIT’s sexual harassment policy. He asked if any of us had ever been harassed, and commented that there are some people who are actually fond of harassment. All of us were extremely confused by this, but I guess to him harassment didn’t have solely a negative connotation, and could simply mean flirting or teasing. Also sometimes when I’m talking to him one-on-one he’ll sometimes emphasize something by leaning towards me, until he’s face is inches away from mine. I have to remind myself that they have different concepts of personal space. The traditional greeting here is three cheek-to-cheek air kisses, which I think is the cutest thing ever. Swiss culture is also extremely polite, and combined with their punctuality, meticulousness, efficiency, and environmental concerns I find myself really liking it. Alors, j’arrête ici, I’ll stop here since it’s only been a week and I’ve already written more than 6 pages!

The Washington DC of Switzerland

Normally we have Wednesdays off but yesterday was our tour of the UN. It was pretty exciting because we get our own UN security badges to use the library. All their reading rooms have to do with international affairs, international law, economics, politics, etc, so that was even more for me to be excited about. There’s also a cyberspace there that we can use for free, although no wifi L We had lunch at the café too, which was kind of cool since we were sitting with all the important people who work there. Afterwards the group was divided up to do visits to different organizations and libraries around the city that we’ll be able to use for research. I went to one of the libraries for the Graduate Institute of International Studies with a few other girls, and we were basically acquainting ourselves with how to use the facility (a challenge for me to ask all my questions in French – a lot of people speak English at least a little bit but I try to use my French, and I had so many questions about the library that I’m pretty sure I annoyed the librarian who was helping me, but oh well). Anyway, there are SO many organizations here, including the WTO, WHO, Red Cross, and a whole bunch I can’t think of. It reminds me of DC, except we’ll be out in the field conducting interviews with experts and actually doing research at all these places. On the way back home I stopped in Nyon and bought a SIM card for my phone, soon after finding out that my phone was still locked, but I happily got everything figured out today and can now make and receive calls. If you feel so inclined to call me here in Switzerland (I won’t hold it against you if you don’t), my number is 041.076.292.8455.

Things were much less exciting Thursday, pretty much just class. We didn’t go to Geneva because it’s a holiday there, known as the fast in homage to the fall harvest (although it definitely feels like it’s winter already). Yesterday and today the sky had hardly any clouds, and we had the most amazing view of the mountains on the other side (the tops of which are often enveloped by clouds), including the French-Italian Mont Blanc. It’s basically a giant, snow-capped, beast of a mountain, that is incredibly beautiful. Mont Blanc is white all year long, or as Renat says, wears her wedding dress all year round. I can’t wait to see the rest of the Swiss Alps – Renat said if we have a chance we could go to Zurmat, which is where the Matterhorn (think of the guys on the Ricola commercials with those giant horn things) is.

For dinner Renat made a tart from cheese and vegetables, with vegetable soup and for dessert a plum tart, just like the ones at City of D’Lights in San Ramon. I thought it was pretty amazing, and I asked her to show me how to make it. Plums, or les pruneaux, are a very Genevese fruit, and they make alcoholic drinks from them and eat them a lot. They’re super sweet here too. Afterwards I went with her to the Samaritains course the has to attend once a month, like a refresher course. I think it was the first time I was part of a group of people who were all speaking French, as opposed to people around me speaking it to each other or trying to speak it with people in stores. It was still kind of hard to understand, and I found myself getting caught up in simply listening to the language without trying to understand it, just because it’s so beautiful. Today I was sitting by someone speaking Italian on her cell phone, and that language just makes me smile – it sounds so bubbly, with the accents on all the o’s and i’s!

The First Day

Breakfast in a Swiss households consists of muesli and bread and butter. I tried a jam made of maribelle fruits I think, which pretty much tastes like honey (it’s delicious). Renat also said she has her own honeybees, although I’m not sure where they are, but she has honey from them too. Our schedule of classes for the week goes as follows:

Monday – 10h45-12h00 Independent Study Project discussion in Geneva, 2-5 French class in Nyon

Tues/Thurs – 9h00-12h00 Seminar/Lecture in Geneva, 2-5 French in Nyon

Wednesday – Off, but we are supposed to use the time to study and do research

Friday – 9h00-12h00 Field Study Seminar discussion

Our first discussion on Monday was even more orientation stuff, where Earl, the Academic Director, talked about everything we’ll be doing this semester, et alors, it was a little bit intimidating. So far the workload is kind of intense, as we received a giant 3-inch thicket packet of photocopied readings for the semester, and we read one giant packet from the entire thing a week. I placed into the Advanced French class (go me!), and there are only 5 of us in the class, with people also divided into the beginner and faux-beginner (they know a little but not much) classes. I really like my French class – the teacher is very energetic and nice, and since we’re so small we’re always engaged and always asking questions. It’s pretty much a lot of vocab and little corrections she makes when we speak, so it’ll be hard to remember those little things but at least we can communicate pretty well. I have a lot of trouble understanding people, although it helps that Renat speaks mostly in French to me.

Tuesday was our first real day of lecture, and it’s interesting finally getting to the meat of what we’re studying, which ranges from environmental studies and public health to international affairs, politics, and economics. I’m super excited since everything is right up my alley, and don’t really know where to start. I’m interested in everything, which is really good, but also kind of sad because I’ll have to narrow my focus a lot for my paper, as liberal arts are so broad and vague J Not everyone here has a major like mine, in fact there are a few Bio/English majors who are pretty lost in our discussion, and I feel kind of bad (but at the same time I’ll admit that it’s a little bit of an ego boost that I know what’s going on and can answer questions). That night we had traditional Swiss food, which consisted of un tomme, basically a small round of cheese with sesame seeds sprinkled on top that’s heated up so when you cut into it it pretty much oozes cheese; rôsti, basically the Swiss version of hash browns, and I also tried turnips for the first time (and decided I didn’t like them). Otherwise everything else was pretty much delicious.

Ma Famille Accueille

Saturday we met our host families! SIT brought people from both programs to a hotel in Nyon, and put us in a room with chairs up against the walls, and some refreshments. Someone commented that we were sort of like orphans, waiting to be picked up and taken home to our new families. My host mom, Renat, came and found me herself, which she said she always tries to do with her students (she’s had 4 before me). We drove to Nyon with my two large bags and then had lunch. Of course the first meal was the biggest test – fish (which in case you don’t know I don’t really eat), and she made a curry sauce with it, which was good. I definitely welcomed the rice J I was kind of nervous, and it was kind of awkward because she isn’t naturally very talkative. Her appartement is actually more like a townhouse, which she told me her son actually owns but she lives here, and there is a nice German man I met who lives upstairs. I have my own room downstairs, with a little window that looks up to the street. I have a little desk, and I realized that I barely brought any clothes since my closet pretty much swallows them up. I also have my own shower, which is nice. Earl had warned us that Swiss usually only take 5-10 minute showers, and they’re very efficient and conscious of the environment, including recycling. Luckily for me I take quick showers anyway, because if I were to turn of the water while shampooing I’m pretty sure I would get sick since my room has no heat. She has a beautiful of the lake and mountains behind it, and we’re part of a bunch of lovely colored townhouses. Next to us is a petit (little) vineyard, and the “downtown” part of Rolle is not far away. I walk to the train station via a little path, and it’s only about 10 minutes away.

Renat is retired, as all Swiss must retire after the age of 65. She does a lot in her free time, though, from golfing and biking to gardening and serving meals to the disabled and sick. She is also part of Samaritains, a group that does First Aid stuff, like CPR and whatnot. That day Samaritains had a stand at the fête (festival) in Nyon, so I went with her because she was working at the stand, which gave people basic first aid and band-aids if they needed it and also had brochures and demonstrations of giving CPR. Apparently the fête only happens once a year, and people come in with boats they built themselves and try to sail them. Some examples are a Flintstones themed boat, and another Rasta-themed one too. There was this huge slide that kids slid down into the lake, as well as paddle boats and kayaks, and at the end of the day each group launched their boat (think Physics boats, but maybe a little bigger and much more decorated) down the slide. There was also a scuba tank and random games for kids. We were there the whole day and I walked around a little but there wasn’t much to do, but I found Alyssa there, also wandering around by herself. It was kind of cool though standing by the railing and just looking out onto the lake, and as people gathered to watch the boats and were just looking out I felt so European… it’s hard to describe, but it was cool. I also made a couple of Swiss friends, with the two younger people in Samaritains who were closer to my age.

Renat was born in Germany, and I think is half Swiss, and came here when she married her husband. They’re now divorced, but half the house they had is still hers and they’re on good terms. For dinner that night we had a salad, which wasn’t anything special except for the fact that pretty much all our vegetables are fresh from her garden, which definitely makes a huge different.

Sunday I sort of slept in (I got up around 10, but I totally could have slept longer), and we had a big breakfast so we could skip lunch since we were going hiking. Renat made me eggs avec fromage (with cheese; it seems the default cheese here is gruyere), and we also had bread, muesli (a mix of oats, nuts, and dried fruits, often eaten with yogurt, so it’s sort of like a parfait), honeydew, and probably more – it was a lot. Renat took me to Dôle, a mountain nearby with an altitude of 1667 metres, and I was pretty excited to be hiking in the Swiss Alps. Of course, the mountain where we went is part of a much smaller range, not like the ones that are giant and snowcapped that you see in pictures. We drove most of the way up, then hiked to the top, which altogether took probably about 4 hours. As soon as we walked into the mountain/trail part, you could hear the tinkling of cowbells everywhere – it was so beautiful. There were cows roaming pretty much all over the place, and they were indeed happy cows. We stopped at a little chalet at the top for a break and a snack, including dried apples which she makes herself. The mountain is used for skiing in the winter, but it usually doesn’t snow here until late December or January. Apparently though it’s been unusually cold, like October weather right now, and there’s even a forecast of snow, probably in the mountains. I translate it to heavy jacket weather in the morning, and it warms up during the day, but I don’t need my coat yet. I learned that the Swiss say hi to everyone, out of politeness I guess, as we said Bonjour to everyone we passed. People bring their dogs everywhere too – the other day getting of the train this girl had THE cutest Siberian Husky puppy I have ever seen. Anyway, Renat said that you can tell if a person is French of German because they don’t say hello. Dinner that night was delicious as well – tomatoes stuffed with ground beef and topped with cheese, then cooked in the oven for a little bit and served over rice. One of the common, cheap desserts here is a caramel flan, which you can buy in little yogurt-like cups, and it’s pretty darn good.

Bienvenue Geneve!

All of us were pretty much zombies when we got in, since we’d been traveling all night and then some. We had a short orientation, then we free to rest or wander the city as we pleased. Going around in a large group – we’re about 20 altogether – isn’t very fruitful in Switzerland, as most restaurants are very small, and people usually go out in pairs or threes here. I walked around with Sara (who also goes to GW, and was coincidentally in my International Econ class last semester), Tasha, Peter, and Paul (there are a total of 4 guys in our group of 20). We found a Lebanese restaurant for dinner. It was cool because they have these giant slabs of meat there. Imagine getting sliced deli ham and piling it about 2 feet high, with a diameter of maybe one foot. The whole thing rotates and there’s a warming element against the wall to keep it hot. Then they basically shave the sides to get meat for you – let me just say it was delicious. Geneva is a very international city – 40% of its population is foreign. As a result, if you ask someone in the rest of Switzerland they will say that Geneva is not really Swiss, that is, not a good example of Swiss culture. We found few Swiss restaurants there, but instead many Lebanese, Asian, Italian, and more. There are cafés and crepes and gelato everywhere, which I think is really exciting. We got gelato after dinner, then walked by the lake – in which there are tons of swans (again, very pretty!). People swim in the lake, and in September there’s something called the Sauna des Bains I think, and I guess you go to a sauna then bathe in the lake to cool off. We’ll see, I plan to check it out J Afterwards we searched for a night time place to hang out, IE a bar. There were mostly locals everywhere, and they’re old locals, but it was also 10:00 on a Wednesday night (and nightlife doesn’t start until midnight, and certainly not until the weekend). Anyway, we sat down at some place and the owner came and started talking to us, just chatting and drinking with us and it was a pretty cool experience for our first night in Geneva. Paul and Peter were pretty good at French, so we were trying our best to understand him.

Thursday – More orientation stuff, I think. We went to Nyon, a small town nearby where our French classes and discussions take place during the week. It’s much more quaint and beautiful, and we had a little bit of time to explore as well. That night a larger group went out to a bar, which then closed and we split up to smaller groups. About 6 or 7 of us found a small café/bar and I tried the hard cider (cidre), which is like wine except apple-y. It was okay. While walking around we also some of the prostitutes which are legal in the Paquis district of Geneva (where we were staying). It was interesting, to say the least.

Friday more orientation stuff in the morning. We take lots of breaks for “refreshments,” which basically means going and sitting at a café for tea or coffee or espresso. I’m pretty much in love with how chill it is. During the afternoon we took a tour of Vielle Ville, Old Town, which is how most of us had pictured Geneva – quaint, cobblestone, beautiful. After the two-hour tour (interesting at first, but mostly just boring historical stuff, you know how tours get), everyone went back to the Auberge, but I stayed with Erin to explore some more. We had dinner at a pizza place and tried a curry chicken pizza, which wasn’t bad. Afterwards we walked back to the Auberge and I found a party in my room, as Peter, Paul, Sara, and Tasha had gotten some wine and things to drink. We went back to Vielle Ville for the night since Earl, the Academic Director, had recommended a bar (if you’re wondering, the policy is that they can’t really stop us from drinking, as long as we obey the law, and they just can’t actually buy us drinks), but it was two stops further down on the tram and a longer walk back, so instead we found a Brassiere du Bière, beer bar, where you could come with a group of people and order this tall cylinder with a tap on it and they filled it with up to 5 litres of beer. We met a group of students who attend Webster, a private university in Geneva, who had studied abroad here before and loved it so much they transferred here. Then we walked across the bridge and in the middle of where the lake turns into the river is Île Rousseau, a small island with a restaurant on it. There was sort of a party and music there, and it was really cool because everything was outside. We stayed there for a bit, then called it a night.

A Depart

The fact that I was going to Switzerland was definitely still very surreal, even as Matt was taking me to the airport. I forgot to get a souvenir in DC for my host mom, so we got some stuff in New York. I was about to buy a NYC snow globe, but Matt convinced me to get a Statue of Liberty rubber ducky, just because it was funny, which she laughed at and said her grandson would enjoy. We also got some black and white cookies, which I don’t think you guys have had but they are delicious! They’re these big, probably 4 inch wide cookies that are sort of frosted on top with half chocolate, half white frosting, but it’s not quite like frosting on a cake. The cookie itself is very moist and soft, like a sugar cookie but almost cake-like. Anyway, SIT had us get to the airport to check in at 3:00, and after we checked our luggage and checked in with a representative we had 3 more hours to kill before actually leaving. They put together students from both the public health program (mine) and the social justice program, so there were about 50 of us altogether, taking over an entire seating area of the gate. We flew Air France (Dad – they’re part of Delta, we might be able to get miles, but maybe not since the flight was discounted, but you might want to check), which was cool because they served wine and beer free of charge, not to mention an actual dinner. I was pretty excited flying my first international flight J We arrived in Paris at about 5am European time, I think, then had another 2 hours to kill before our connecting flight left. I got breakfast at a little bakery cart in the airport (it was delicious, of course) and it was the first time being totally surrounded by the French language! We were on a much smaller plane going to Geneva, and we hit turbulence a couple times that actually made me fear for my life a little. Otherwise, nothing much interesting there – when we got in they had a bus for each group that took us to the Auberge (hostel), where we would be staying for the next few days.

New Jersey Adventures

I went back to New Jersey with Matt about a week before my flight. We got in on Wednesday, and mostly just chilled on Thursday. His mom has an at-home daycare for kids ranging from babies to maybe 4 or 5 years old, on average, and they are all so cute. Friday we went into the city. First we checked out a Filipino restaurant I found online, which was good but of course nothing like home cooking. Then we went to the Met and walked around a bit, followed by a stroll through Central Park and dinner nearby at an Italian restaurant. Then we went to a small bakery I also found online that was known for its cookies – and with good reason! One cookie cost a whopping 3.50 but it was definitely worth it. For one thing the cookies each weigh 6 oz, and they are rich, gooey, and pretty much these giant chunks of goodness. Saturday we went with his family to visit his grandmother, and his aunt and uncle and cousin were there too. She lives by a lagoon, so I learned how to fish and caught my first fish!! I think it was called a bluefish. I think Sunday we mostly stayed in because I had started to get sick, which is not a good thing to do before flying. Matt took me to Enza’s for dinner, the restaurant where his parents went when they were first dating. They have the most amazing, authentic Italian food, since it’s run right out of someone’s home. Then we took his sisters out for dessert to Bischoff’s, an ice cream place where you can actually be seated and just order from an entire menu of sundaes, floats, and more. Monday was mostly errands, buying last-minute things I needed as well as getting my last Jamba Juice for a while and doing a bit of shopping at the Garden State Plaza :)